Rathcroghan: Ireland’s ancient metropolis

Little inspires the imagination as vividly as walking through the ruined remains of a once thriving metropolis. Seeing the great stones of buildings, the hills and walkways where our ancestors would have stepped, or just the sense of scale of a place which has fallen so far from its place of greatness. Rathcroghan, with a staggering 240 archaeological sites in a 6.5km² radius, together spanning 5,550 years of history, is certainly a site which should fit this description.

And yet, as with so many of Ireland’s ancient sites, we have such a partial view of what was undoubtedly one of Ireland’s ancient metropolises. But, what we do know provides a tantalizing picture of ancient Ireland.

Artist's impression of the site of Rathcroghan and the various other buildings — Credit: JG O’Donoghue

A bastion of the Iron Age

Unlike the other sites I have written about which date to the Neolithic or even Mesolithic periods, Rathcroghan is primarily an Iron Age site. Out of the hundreds of archaeological locations at Rathcroghan, only one court tomb has been dated to the neolithic period (though there’s always the possibility for further finds given the limited archaeological analysis). A recent study of the site summed it up succinctly:

“Tradition states that Rathcroghan or Cruachan was the seat of Connacht’s Iron Age elite and served as their cemetery.”¹

The site continued to be used into later centuries with evidence of defensive structures and homesteads. But these typically didn’t interfere with the existing sites. In fact, the site’s importance as a spiritual and religious centre likely meant it was typically avoided given the many barrow-mounds and burials. And it was for the greatest of these mounds that it is believed to have been named as it has.

Crochen of Rath Croghen

The Dindshenchas poem, meaning ‘lore of places’, is a form of ancient Irish literature which describes the source and beliefs associated with over 200 locations. Through verse, it would have been a core source of local knowledge, of the history and traditions associated with significant sites all across Ireland, including Rathcroghan.

Amongst many interesting verses is a beautiful story of the Sid (one of the fairy folk), Etain, and her handmaid, Crochen. Upon seeing the fairy hill (mound of Rathcroghan) the handmaid Crochen declared it a lovely dwelling. Midir, Etain’s husband, gifted Crochen the mound as a reward for her journey and so it was named after her.

While I don’t do the poem justice (you can read it here), the mythical symbolism of Rathcroghan is without doubt. And it doesn’t stop there.

Place of mythology

Rathcroghan is probably best known for its role in the Irish epic saga, The Tain Bó Cuailngne. This ancient epic forms a core part of the Ulster Cycle; a set of myths associated with Iron Age Ireland. The Tain begins with Connacht’s Queen Maeve and her husband Aillil arguing over who has the greater wealth. After much debate, Aillil produces his great bull which Maeve cannot match. Unwilling to be beaten, Maeve sets about searching for another bull to rival that of her husband’s.

Mural of the two bulls from the Irish epic the Tain — Credit: William Murphy

She initially succeeds, negotiating a year’s loan of such a great bull, but her messengers reveal to its owner that she intends to take it by force if they fail. Infuriated at her lack of honour, the owner withdraws from the deal and so begins the story proper.

Left with no choice, Maeve raises an army of Ulster exiles alongside forces from Connacht. The bull’s owner is, however, in Ulster and so they likewise raise an army to defend their honour. The Ulster force is initially debilitated by a curse (see the story of Macha for more) and the hero Cú Chulainn alone holds back Maeve’s army until the Ulster forces are able to join the fight.

I’ll not spoil the full story, except to say it ends with the two mighty bulls fighting near Rathcroghan, so placing it once more at the heart of this great epic.

That Rathcroghan is chosen as the setting for such a significant myth is surely no accident. Indeed, this brings us to what the myths say about the setting.

Reimagining the Great Palace

With a site as large and as diverse as Rathcroghan, it is difficult to fully capture what it may have once looked like. But extracts from the Tain and other stories within the Ulster Cycle give us a peak through the window of time.

First there are the accounts in the ancient myths as in the tale of ‘Bricriu’s Feast’ of the Royal Palace:

“Mebt then went to the outer door of the courtyard….There were facades of bronze and partitions of red yew, and three strips of bronze in the vault of the roof. The house itself was of oak and was covered with shingles, and there was glass for each of the twelve windows. The apartments of Aillil and Medb were in the centre of the house and had silver facades and strips of bronze; Aillil’s façade had in it a silver wand that extended to the rafters of the house”²

In the Tain it described in a similar way, with shingle, bronze and brass adornment, and silver gildings. This was no pauper’s shed, but a rich and indulgent site of wealth. Granted these descriptions are embellished and coloured by the passing of time, but they – at the very least – indicate this site to have been a central place of political and economic power. This view is only reinforced when we look at other historical sources.

Historical Significance

Alongside Tara and Emain Macha, Rathcroghan was one of the main locations for great meetings. These weren’t meetings of the people, but akin to a seasonal parliament gathering. Members of the regional elite would gather to discuss matters of governance and law: dispute resolution, agree marriage alliances, trade agreements, religious observances. Indeed, it’s interesting that in the Dindshenchas there’s a line which says: “O host whence springs lasting fame of laws!”

That is was one of the three great burial sites in Ireland is also easy to see.³ The significance of this is likely lost on us today, but given the centrality that death and burial had in the life and culture of ancient Ireland, it is hard to overstate its importance. Grand religious events and gatherings would have almost certainly taken place here. Again the great Dindshenchas poem refers to Rathcroghan as “holy without austerity”.

If this weren’t enough, there’s its role as one of the great palaces of Iron Age Ireland, the seat of the King of Connacht, and the place of royal inauguration. Again we know little of what this meant in practice bar that passed down through the myths I’ve already discussed. But if we described any location today in like terms, we’d undoubtedly be describing a capital city, a hub of politics, economics, and religion.

Rathcroghan Today

You hopefully have in your mind a site to rival Pompey or Vindolanda. The catalogue of myths, archaeology, and history is compelling. But, like many great ancient Irish sites, it has not survived the pains of history well. The famous Irish historian, PW Joyce puts it plainly when he says: “The remains…are not imposing: for the main features have been effaced by cultivation.”⁴

It is a sad truth that the site is but a shadow of its former self, one which is largely lost to us today. When you see the mounds and stones which remain, it requires a work of vivid imagination to picture the metropolis that once was. But thankfully a group of dedicated volunteers have done just that.

A fantastic visitor centre has been set up to document the lore and history associated with Rathcroghan. Through artistic representations, aerial footage, the centre does a fantastic job of helping visitors engage with this rich and invaluable ancient site of Ireland.

But, I hope as you read this, you get a sense of allure Irish ancient history proffers. These sites hold the potential to inspire a whole new generation of Irish culture. There’s much more to these locations than their mere physicality. They represent a way of life, belief, and community, which we can still learn from today. And it’s only by researching and enjoying them that we slowly unlock this rich trove of knowledge. I for one will continue to relish the chance. Perhaps this will encourage you to do so too.

Site Information

Located just outside Tulsk in County Roscommon, Ireland.

For more information about visiting the site today see here. If you’re unable to visit the site, the Trust overseeing it have produced an excellent virtual ‘tour’ here. It includes reconstructions of the various locations, alongside fantastic views of each.